To Go or Not To Go
If you are tempted to visit Burma, we will definitely encourage you to do
so. There is quite a discussion raging in the travel community whether a visit
to the country inadvertently supports the military junta that rules the country
or whether the visit can bring the people desired contact with the outside
world and support the local economy and entrepreneurial spirit. We thought
about this issue before deciding to go and because my husband and I both grew
up in a communist country (he in Czechoslovakia and me in Yugoslavia) we could
remember well the excitement of meeting foreigners that came to visit our
countries and the possibility that local owners of a B&B or a small pub
could earn some hard currency from their visit. When we were in Burma we asked numerous local
people about their take on this dilemma and every single one of them assured us
that they really wanted a chance to meet people from outside the country and
that the money spent at a local establishment supports people in a big way. A
purchase of a bag of bird feed from the little kid hanging around the boat
rental on the Inle Lake or a piece of a sugar cane on an elephant ride can make
his day or maybe his week.
The Logistics
You will need a visa to Burma and the maximum validity is
28 days. If you have enough time you can save good money by applying for it
yourself by mail to the consulate in your respective country. The forms can be
downloaded from their website. I understand there are now new requirements for
Burmese visas that encompass a letter of invitation. (our travel agent is able
to get that for you). You will pretty much have to fly into Yangon (Rangoon) from surrounding
countries as crossing over the border on foot is very difficult. There are many
interesting places to visit all over the country, but when planning the trip
mind the reality that transportation is an issue unless you utilize airplanes
(surprisingly, we found them very reliable). The roads are tortuously potholed
and even a short distance will take forever. It is possible to travel on your
own but we found right at the start that we could not book a hotel directly
through their website cheaper than our agent could. He also arranged for car
and driver transportation that was a lot cheaper than did travelers we met,
doing it on their own. We usually do not utilize guides when we travel (with
the exception of safari guides in Africa), but
because of the language barriers (not only few people speak English, they speak
many different languages and dialects) and the novelty of tourism we found our
translators-guides indispensable (the fee is very reasonable and worth every
penny) and enlightening. Here is the website of our agency: Fascinating Land Travel Agency. Mong
Pay and Michael are absolutely marvelous and trustworthy.
You should get appropriate immunizations. Depending on time
of year you should consider malaria prophylaxis as well. We had no issues at
all with food or drink. While not very exciting the food from all different
sources gave our stomach absolutely no problems. There is bottled water
available and good local beer.
Things to See and Do
You will of course want to spend a bit of time in Rangoon, though a few days
should suffice for Shwedagon Pagoda (try to be there before dusk) and Scott’s
Market, our two favorite destinations. If you haven’t been other places in Asia the huge Reclining Buddha is worth a visit, too. Inle Lake
is a very special place that pictures do not do justice to. It is great if you
have enough time (a few days at least) to explore the different floating
markets. Bagan is famous for the thousands of temples. Kyak Hti Jo (Kyaiktiyo),
the Golden Rock seems to be a highlight for many. Most people are quite
disappointed by Mandalay
or by the river cruise on Irrawady. The beaches (both of them) are a relaxing
and romantic place to take a break or end your trip at.
For people interested in trekking you can visit some
villages on foot and even stay with the locals. The Balloon ride over Bagan is
a special treat. You can ride elephants close to the Ngwe Saung beach.
The People
The people are all incredibly gracious. They are
helpful if needed but never subservient or pushy. (OK with the
exception of the kids selling postcard at Sule Pagoda, but they are
sweet) You will have a chance to meet people from different tribes and of different religion. The majority are Buddhist and they are quite devout. That's why you will see them in large numbers at the temples making offerings. Everyone has to become a monk or a nun at least once if not twice in their life, that's why you will see many of them, some children walking around asking for rice with their alms bowls. You should not touch a monk or a nun. We have not encounter many beggars or prostitutes or drug sellers. We were never asked for money when taking a picture of a person. Nobody seemed to mind and we generally did not ask for permission. We had a supply of stickers with us and gave them out to kids. They loved them, though in some villages they had no idea what they were, until we showed them how to stick them on their clothes.
Visiting the Orphanages
If you have a chance to allocate an extra half day for a visit
to “our orphanages” you will not regret the wonderful experience of spending
some time with the children. Please let us know if you are considering doing
that and we might have suggestions of how you can enrich the kids’ lives.
For an article written about our family trip click here .